Outrunning My Feet
Outgrowing My Shoes
• Lithuania •

Birds Don’t Plant Gardens & I Still Need Naps

When Aiden and I got together, I was staying with a host family in Riga, Latvia and he was deployed to Kuwait. I had grown to love it so much that I informed him that he would have to accept a Latvian lifestyle if he wanted to be with me as I would be immigrating after college. Because he loves me (and traveling), he agreed.

When we backpacked Europe the next year, it was a huge deal to me that Aiden was able to see Riga. After spending a night, we secured cheap flights to Vilnius and we were on our way. My host mom had joked that the flight would only take 20 minutes: 10 minutes up and 10 minutes down. We laughed, and then discovered that she was telling the truth.

Although Latvia and Lithuania are Baltic sisters, I honestly didn't think it was possible for me to love another city like I do Riga. As soon as we walked past the Gates of Dawn into Old Town, the cognitive dissonance began. The whole city proved itself to be quite the magical affair. Being surrounded by the beauty of the castles, churches and cobblestone streets was quickly convincing me to broaden my horizons for my future plans to move abroad.

After a quick tour of the city from our Bolt driver, we decided that the best way to start our day would be to summit Gediminas’ Hill to see the castle. He dropped us near the entrance, where we each bought a ticket for $7. Because we were trying to see 14 countries in under $3,000 (which we successfully completed), we actually had a conversation about whether or not it would be worth it. I look back on this and laugh now. Just spend the $14, guys!

We got into a glass train car that brought us up to the top of the hill and began exploring. Overlooking the city and feeling the sun on my skin atop a castle with my boyfriend, soon-to-be fiancé, was enthralling. While this moment was briefly magical, our hunger was not. We decided to ride back down and get some traditional Baltic cuisine.

At the restaurant, we ordered my favorite soup, холодный суп (kholodnyy sup), and it definitely did not disappoint. Exhausted was an understatement, so we walked across the street and laid on our hoodies in the park. We both ended up accidentally falling asleep, all of our belongings padlocked to our belt loops, in the middle of town. Unfortunately, the combination of several previous long travel days, a gentle breeze, full bellies, and soft warm grass was irresistible to our tired bodies.

So, once we woke up we thanked God that we hadn't been robbed or kidnapped and promptly began searching for a cheap hostel. Because He always provides and birds don’t plant gardens, naturally there was one less than 200 feet away. If the picture I painted of the park nap was beautiful, multiply that by 100 and you'll only begin to realize the view from the hostel. The open window gently blew the pastel yellow curtains into our bedroom, which overlooked the soft grass in the park. A few doors down, the bakery set out freshly baked dark rye bread to cool, filling the air with a scent that can only be recreated by a woman with a soft belly and an affinity for feeding any child who comes into her house. The quiet hustle and bustle of the city below us lulled us to sleep for another hour.

Aiden was somehow able to convince me to take scooters to explore Old Town. I am unapologetically clumsy and therefore we agreed that he would drive the scooter while I rode in front of him. Admittedly, it was a blast. We saw churches, old buildings, statues, and got lots of bewildered Lithuanian stares along the way.

Ultimately, we decided to grab some сырочки (one of my favorite treats ever, pronounced see-roach-key), thin-sliced deli meats, some butter, and freshly baked bread. We sat down at some tables down the street and began eating, only to be greeted by a waiter who told us we had to buy something if we would be eating at their tables. To which, I responded, "Sorry, English?" In case you didn't know, I am fluent in Russian and can get by in Latvia and Lithuania thanks to my host parents and self-study, so, I'm really not sure why I asked him to speak to me in English? Naturally, he said "I am speaking English." We just got up and found a different table as I was bewildered by the entire experience.

We found a skatepark to sit at and watched as the fearless Lithuanian kids committed some very cool tricks. It should be noted that I was, and always will be, wildly impressed with the goth scene in both Latvia and Lithuania. They have mastered the Y2K alternative/goth scene, makeup included. Then, we walked along the river a bit before ending the night at the Skybar.

Note: see the blog about my first Latvian experience here.

July 11, 2024
Vilnius
Old Town, scooters, parks, skybar, spontaneous overnight

The quick snapshot

Dates
July 11, 2024
Where we stayed
Vilnius, Lithuania
Trip style
Quick city stop, spontaneous overnight, Old Town wandering, scooters, and nightlife
Overall rating
9.5 / 10
Where we stayed

Stay details

Hotel / Airbnb

Name: Pogo Hostel

Area: Vilnius

What I liked: This stay came out of pure exhaustion in the best way possible. After a park picnic turned into both of us falling asleep, booking a hostel for the night felt like the perfect spontaneous decision. It gave us a chance to rest, reset, and keep exploring instead of cutting the day short.

What I didn’t: Nothing really — it was simple, affordable, and exactly what we needed in that moment.

Would I stay here again? Yes — especially for a spontaneous little city stop.

Booking notes

  • Price: $14.00
  • Best part: It let us turn a day trip into a little overnight adventure
  • Good fit for: Young, flexible travel where convenience matters more than luxury
  • Overall: One of those last-minute decisions that made the trip even better

Getting there

Travel: Flew in from Riga

Travel cost: $34.00

Rental car: None

Arrival notes: We had the sweetest Uber driver who basically turned the ride into a free mini tour and told us all the best places to see. The airport is not far from Old Town or the castles, which made the city feel easy and accessible right away.

Recommendation: Yes, absolutely. The flight is almost comically short, and it makes Vilnius such an easy add-on. Next time, I might consider taking a train just to see more of the countryside, but the flight was perfect too.

Food + drink

Where we ate and what we ordered

Food notes

What stood out most: The food, the Skybar drinks, and how easy it was to love absolutely everything we tried.

Would I do it again? Immediately

Notes: Vilnius felt like a city where every meal adds to the mood of the whole place. The food was great, the drinks were amazing, and even the most casual stops felt fun.

Overall food take

Everything about Vilnius felt easy to love, and the food was definitely a part of that. Each dish was both charming and filling, making me homesick for a city I had not yet explored.

Daily notes

What we did, day by day

Day 1

Date: July 11, 2024

Main plan: Explore Vilnius Old Town, wander through the castles, churches, art-filled corners, and city streets, then relax in the park and keep the day going however it wanted to unfold.

Best part: Realizing almost immediately that Vilnius was not just pretty — it was genuinely magical.

Worth repeating? Absolutely

Little moment I do not want to forget

Memory: We were so tired that we both fell asleep after a picnic in the park, then woke up and decided to just book a hostel for the night and keep going.

Why it mattered: It turned the whole stop into something more spontaneous, more relaxed, and somehow even more fun.

Worth keeping? Definitely

Later that day

Main plan: Explore more by scooter, hang out with other people our age at a skate park, shop around, and end the day at the Skybar.

Best part: The energy of the city — youthful, fearless, artistic, and so easy to enjoy.

Worth repeating? In a heartbeat

Favorites

Best part: Vilnius Old Town

Best view: The city from the Skybar

Best activity: Wandering the city by foot and scooter with no real rush

Best little moment: Realizing we loved Vilnius enough to immediately start imagining what life there could look like.

What I’d recommend

Walk Old Town slowly, see the castles and churches, spend time in the parks, ride scooters if you can, and save time for the Skybar at night. Vilnius deserves more than a checklist — it is best when you let yourself just enjoy being there.

What I’d skip

Honestly, not much. This was one of those stops that exceeded every expectation. The only thing I would change is giving it even more time.